By Hannah Kelley
Nestled in West Penwith — the far west side of Cornwall, England — is a cozy “shed” filled with crafting supplies. Hilary Wagstaff spends her days here dreaming up doll clothing designs and sewing away at the machine she has affectionately named Bertha. A collection of dolls keeps her company while also providing modeling services.
“My shed is really a summerhouse in the garden that has been converted into a workroom,” Wagstaff said. Visitors who stop by and look inside without knowing what she does usually have a “wow!” moment. “It has proper flooring and a radiator, so it’s cozy in the winter. It is small but a perfectly organized space for me to create in. I have lots of drawers and shelves for storing notions and tools. I am a very tidy person when I work and cannot work in a mess.” If the radio isn’t tuned in to BBC Radio 4, there’s a likelihood Miss Marple or Poirot is on in the background instead.
Having learned to sew from her mother as a child, Wagstaff was often given scraps of fabric from whatever item of clothing was being made at the time. Because she enjoyed playing with her Mary Quant Daisy and Pippa dolls, it wasn’t long before those cast-off remnants were transformed into doll clothes. Wagstaff said she still has the first doll dress she made but noted her skills have improved significantly.
Leaning into her creative passions going into adulthood, Wagstaff pursued a college degree in fine arts and became a graphic designer. She said, “Making and designing is part of who I am. I could not envisage a life where I was not making things or messing about with paper and glue or messing about with fabrics.”
Making doll clothes remained just a hobby for some time, but Wagstaff was constantly improving her skills. “At first, I adapted patterns for children’s clothes or worked from Japanese pattern books, until I learned my trade and became able to create and develop my own patterns,” Wagstaff said. Those around her saw she had the potential to take it to the next level and encouraged her to do so. She began selling her handmade doll clothes and did this for a few years while also maintaining a full-time job, but it was exhausting trying to juggle everything. Wagstaff eventually reached a point where she felt confident giving up her day job to operate her business: Moshi Moshi. “It wasn’t what I had intended to do, but I really enjoyed working in miniature and creating these little outfits and soon became obsessed. It was a real creative journey and so much fun too, playing with fabrics and shapes. I didn’t want to stop.”
With a style she describes as nostalgic but also playful and fun, Wagstaff said, “I want my outfits and my dolls to convey a kind of country girl aesthetic, bookish girls who are also a little bit arty.” Her style reflects her own personality, as she spends her free moments reading; visiting antique markets, gardens, and historical places; socializing with friends over tea and cake; traveling; and taking up projects around the home.
“I design mainly for Blythe-size dolls,” she said, “but that now includes lots of dolls that can share Obitsu 22-size bodies, as well as Licca and some other Korean and Chinese makers’ dolls. I did make smaller doll outfits but now prefer 1/6th scale; there is more scope and still the thrill of creating in miniature without it getting too tiny.”
Sewing has become a form of meditation for Wagstaff. She said, “It frees my mind to think of all sorts of things. I can look out from my window to the sea, and a view of Godrevy Lighthouse, but it is also a very immersive experience, where I am concentrating and focused on what I am doing. But my mind can also wonder to thoughts of what’s for dinner and what fabrics I might want to get. I am always thinking about fabrics!”
Practice has helped Wagstaff figure out which materials work best to achieve the results she wants. Natural fabrics, cottons, and linens, in addition to vintage fabrics and antique lace, are her textiles of choice. “I think I usually have an outfit in mind before I choose the fabrics,” she said. “I have an idea, and then I look for the fabrics to make that possible. I have a lot of fabric, but it’s like having a selection of paints at my disposal to realize my ideas.” She finds gratification when an idea fully takes shape and she is able to add the finishing touches.
Completing an outfit from an existing pattern can typically be accomplished in a day, but new patterns can take Wagstaff two or three days to perfect. For select patterns, she goes on to produce digital instructions that are made available through her website. She said, “I don’t make patterns for all my designs. Believe me, I have lots of patterns that I have developed over the years. The main reason for making the patterns was to help people learn to sew for themselves, because I feel that half the fun of this hobby is in being creative and making things for your dolls. For me, it enhances the fun, and I wanted to share that with other people. There can be a lot of consumerism in the hobby, but I like making things and thought other people might like the crafty side too. I was also really appreciative of the Japanese books I had learned so much from and wanted to pass on something.”
Sewing doll clothes can be tricky for beginners, but Wagstaff has some advice. “Look at vintage patterns for Barbies, or the old Bleuette patterns,” she said. “You can start really simple, and with practice, you will get better and be able to make more complicated things. But don’t worry about making mistakes; we are sometimes overcritical of ourselves and lose confidence.” By researching the techniques of others, she said, “Inevitably, you will pick up tips and tricks, such as using a spray bottle to set gathers, and using organdy and tulle for interfacings and linings.” Wagstaff is proud of the way her patterns have given others the confidence to learn something new, and she’s even started offering workshops through Patreon for those who prefer a more hands-on approach to learning.
Memorable moments and creations have been plentiful for Wagstaff. Highlights include taking part in the U.K.’s first Blythecon and meeting Gina Garan and other doll people she looked up to and now considers her friends. She has designed outfits for doll photographer Eileen Lam (Dolly Treasures) and new releases from Qbaby doll designer Lee Rodger. She said, “Last year, I worked on a collaboration with two other artists — Patrícia Sá Couto and Sandra Efigénio — to create three little dolls who we called The Woodlanders. We envisaged them as little woodland sprites, who foraged for berries in the wood, collected mushrooms, and lived a secret life in the natural world, unseen by most humans. It was a lovely project, and I loved the ideas that we all brought to it, the connections, and the conversations we had to bring it to fruition.”
Each of Wagstaff’s doll outfits is made with care and serves as a reminder of a more innocent time. She said, “I hope to spread some joy and loveliness, that’s all. Let’s face it: Dolls are not an essential thing. They are pure fun and play, so I am just lucky that I get to work at something that brings so much pleasure to me and other people who love dolls.”
